The Original Fortrove Designer
Jewelry Blog

In an interview with Town And Countrythird-generation jeweler Lee Siegelson divulged the ever-expanding world of jewelry and his family's 100-year endeavor to discover more rarified pieces.

When asked about his favorite jewelry lesson, Siegelson said "I’m not sure it’s a legend, but rather an excellent story of happenstance. I had been looking through a rare old catalogue of jewelry owned by Lillian Timken from an auction at Parke-Bernet in 1960. And I fell in love with a Cartier Art Deco-carved emerald and sapphire necklace. It was a terrible grainy picture and the connections were at an odd angle, but I just new this was a major piece that you are lucky to see in a lifetime. And just a few weeks after I set it as the screen saver on my computer, someone emailed me a picture of the actual necklace. I bought it without even seeing it."

the timken necklace,  art deco emerald, sapphire, and diamond pendant necklace, cartier, paris, �1925

Source

Siegelson was later asked about the one jewel that he'd regrettably passed over, saying "The work of Gerard Sandoz is very rare and very important. He made fantastic jewelry for only a brief time at the height of the Art Deco period, from 1920–1931. A charming, restless character, he was known to enjoy parties at Maxim’s and eventually left the family business of jewelry making for a modest film career. The jewelry he made is an absolutely pure exploration of geometric shapes in varied materials, colors, and finishes that combine to create a complex layered shape. There is nothing else like the jewelry he made. Sandoz said, 'It’s possible to make very beautiful jewelry simply with gold and to make horrors with rivers of diamonds,' (which I completely agree with) and he made beautiful jewels with silver and lacquer. A few years ago a wonderful red and black lacquer ring by Sandoz came up at auction. It was bombe form covered in interlocking shapes formed of red and black lacquer and polished silver. It was perfect and I decided to buy it. I was celebrating being the high bidder at auction, when I got a call. The Musée des Arts Décoratifs had acquired the ring and it wouldn’t be leaving France. I was very happy for them to acquire this important piece and it belongs in the museum, but it was an astonishing phone call. (I have sold some wonderful Sandoz over the year, and I donated a very important Sandoz necklace to the Musee des arts Decoratifs a few years ago as well.) And Doris Duke owned an incredible necklace that I bid on but was unable to buy."

Information originally sourced from Town And Country.